
By A Web Design
Beyond the endless urban sprawl of Athens, the vast expanse of central Greece has a little of everything for the visitor, from sandy beaches and fishing ports, to one of the country's most important archaeological sites, Ancient Delphi. Not to be missed is the Byzantine splendor of the monasteries of Dafni and Osios Loukas, while the extraordinary mountain-top monasteries of Meteora are another of the region's principal attractions.
The beautiful wooded mountain slopes of the Pilio offer some of the best scenery on the mainland.
Sounio
The temple of Poseidon, situated at the top of sheer cliffs tumbling into the Aegean Sea at Sounio (Cape Sounion), was ideally located as a place to worship the powerful god of the sea. Its brilliant white marble columns have been a landmark for ancient and modern mariners alike.
The present temple, built in 444 BC, stands on the site of older ruins. An Ionic frieze, made from 13 slabs of Parian marble, is located on the east side of the temple's main approach path. It is very eroded, but is known to have depicted scenes from mythological battles, as well as the adventures of the hero Theseus, said in some legends to be the son of Poseidon.
Local marble from the quarries at Agriléza was used for the temple's 34 slender Doric columns, of which 15 survive today. In 1810 the British Romantic poet, Lord Byron, carved his name on one of the columns, setting an unfortunate precedent of vandalism at the temple.
Monastery of Dafni
Founded in the 5th century AD, the Monastery of Dafni is named after the laurels (dafnes) that once grew here. It was built with the remains of an ancient sanctuary of Apollo, which had occupied the site until it was destroyed in AD 395. In the early 13th century, Otto de la Roche, the first Frankish Duke of Athens, bequeathed it to Cistercian monks in Burgundy. Greek Orthodox monks took the site in the 16th century, erecting the elegant cloisters just south of the church. The monastery is presently closed for restoration, due to an earthquake which hit in the year 2000.
Among the monastery's principal attractions are the beautiful gold-leaf Byzantine mosaics in the katholikon (main church). Byzantine church architecture was concerned almost exclusively with decoration. Mosaics and frescoes portraying the whole body of the Church, from Christ downward, had a dual purpose: they gave inspiration to worshipers and represented windows to the spiritual world.
The most impressive mosaics at Dafni are the Esonarthex Mosaics, which include the Last Supper, the Washing of the Feet, and the Betrayal of Judas. Equally magnificent, the Christ Pantokrator is a mosaic of Christ in judgement that fills the church's huge dome.
Monastery of Osios Loukas
Dedicated to a local hermit and healer, Osios Loukas ("Holy Luke"), who lived in the 10th century, this splendid monastery was one of medieval Greece's most important buildings architecturally. It was built around AD 1011 by the Emperor Romanos, who extended an earlier church dating from 944. The octagonal style of the main church, the katholikon, became a hallmark of late Byzantine church design, while the mosaics inside lifted Byzantine art into its final great period.
Among the most impressive features of the monastery are the 10th-century crypt, which is from the original church and contains the sarcophagus of Holy Luke, and a mosaic entitled Washing of the Apostles' Feet. This 11thcentury work, based on a style dating back to the 6th century, is the finest of a number of mosaics found in the narthex, the western entrance hall. The monastery's main dome is decorated with an imposing mural of Christ, painted in the 16th century to replace fallen mosaics.
Ancient Delphi
In ancient times Delphi was believed to be the center of the earth. The site was renowned as a dwelling place of Apollo, and from the late 8th century BC people came here to worship and seek advice from the god. With the political rise of Delphi in the 6th century BC, and the establishment of the Pythian Games - a cultural, religious, and athletic festival - the site entered a golden age that lasted until the arrival of the Romans in 191 BC. The Delphic Oracle was abolished in AD 393 after Christianity was introduced as the state religion.
The Sanctuary of Apollo, also known as the Sacred Precinct, forms the heart of the complex, and one of its most impressive sights is the Temple of Apollo. A temple has stood on this spot since the 6th century BC, but the remains visible today date from the 4th century BC. Leading from the sanctuary entrance to the Temple of Apollo is the Sacred Way, once lined with some 3,000 statues and treasuries. Also worth seeing is the well-preserved Stadium.
The present structure dates from Roman times, and most of the seating is still intact. The Marmaria Precinct, or marble quarry, is where the Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia is found. Here, the most remarkable monument is the tholos, which dates from the 4th century BC. The purpose of this circular structure, originally surrounded by 20 columns, remains a mystery.
The museum at Ancient Delphi houses an impressive collection of sculptures and architectural remains.
Pilio
The Pilio Peninsula is one of the most beautiful areas of the mainland. The mountain air is sweet with the scent of herbs, which in ancient times were renowned for their healing properties. The area became populated in the 13th century by Greeks retreating from the Ottomans. After centuries of protecting its culture, the Pilio is known for its strong local cuisine. The main town on the peninsula is Volos, which has an excellent Archaeological Museum. From here you can make a tour of the many traditional hillside villages and fishing ports. Worth visiting are Milies, with its Folk Museum and fresco-adorned church, and picturesque Vyzitsa.
Argalasti has a busy market, though its tavernas and cafes retain a peaceful atmosphere.
For fine sandy beaches and excellent seafood, visit the popular coastal resorts of Platanila or Agios Ioannis.